HEALTH BENEFITS of BEE PRODUCTS for CATS and DOGS

 

By Bobby Lynch 3 February 2014

Bees may be annoying, especially when they sting, but did you know that bees produce some of the most health beneficial products in the world?  It’s true!  The life longevity of royal jelly, allergy and digestion benefits of raw honey, the super strong antibacterial and antiviral properties of bee propolis, paw and skin protection of bees’ wax, bee pollens natural energizer and the arthritis reduction of bee venom are the many health benefits made from bees.  These properties have been proven to help humans and those same results are also shown in pets.

Hang down honey

Remember to always buy organic raw honey instead of just raw honey.  Organic beekeepers do not use any chemicals so the honey their bees produce is safer.  There is a very small chance of contaminated honey from an organic beekeeper.  That is the main reason why most common store bought honey has been cooked.  It assures a safe product, especially when the source of honey is unknown.  A common issue is botulism.

Feeding your pet raw honey is not a new radical trend.  Juliette de Bairacli Levy has practiced such alternatives to conventional treatments with her Natural Rearing philosophy for the past 60 years.  Her love for this product is evident in every one of her published animal care books.

“I believe I could not successfully rear domestic dogs without this remarkable antiseptic food” she says in The Complete Herbal Handbook for the Dog and Cat.  Her important mention in that very same book is that “while honey is not a normal item of diet for carnivores, lions in the wild enjoy honey and it is considered a staple food of the omnivorous bear.”

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She continues to write: “Honey is the greatest of the natural energizers, a nerve tonic and a supreme heart tonic.  Pre-digested by its makers, the bees, it is absorbed immediately into the bloodstream of the consumer.  A diet of only milk and honey can sustain life for months in humans and animals.  It has been well and long-time proved that honey is also highly medicinal and will inhibit growth of harmful bacteria in the entire digestive tract and destroy those of a toxic nature.”

Levy has taught many of the Raw To The Bones® team members with her literature.  One of her main thoughts of pet health is the importance of a weekly pet detoxification.  This is especially important for ill pets so their digestive organs rest, allowing a pet’s body to heal quickly.  This is very true, given the consideration that 70% of the immune system is within the digestive tract.  In addition to water, the only food she recommends for fasting animals is honey.

Honeycombs with spoon

Bees derive their honey by harvesting pollen from a wide verity of flowers.  These variances give honey a wide selection of colour and taste.  This can range from light to dark and its taste from delicate to complex.  Raw honey contains vitamins A, B-complex, C, D, E, and K, plus calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, silicon, sulphur, potassium, manganese, copper, and iodine.  Darker varieties such as buckwheat contain higher mineral levels.  Vitamin C levels vary; some honey contains up to 300 milligrams of Vitamin C per 100 grams (about 3½ ounces or 7 tablespoons).

honey2

The medicinal properties of honey have been used since the dawn of man.  Ancient Greek, Assyrian, Chinese, and Roman physicians religiously prescribed it for health and life longevity.  Its component benefits did not stop there. It was also used for conditions such as indigestion, diarrhoea, fevers, coughs, colds, flu, asthma, allergies, and ulcers.  It is also a revitalizing food for athletes, soldiers, and those recovering from illness or injury.  It does not stop there!  Honey is said to help increase calcium when consumed at the same time.  It helps treat or prevent anaemia, reduce arthritis pain, and work as a gentle laxative to help prevent constipation.  Its topical remedies are amazing in treating open wounds, burns, cuts, abrasions, and skin infections

Raw Honey For Dogs

Dogs contain sweet receptors in their taste buds so honey is favoured by almost all dogs and is easy to feed.  It can be used in homemade treats or in their main meals.  If your pet is a picky eater then a ¼ teaspoon mixed with their food will encourage the most food brazen of dogs.

If your dog has environmental allergies, then feeding them raw honey will help relieve them.  Just like humans, a high pollen count can stimulate severe allergy issues in dogs.  The most common of these are season changes.  The most positive results are from feeding them one tablespoon of raw honey twice a day 2-3 weeks before an allergy season hits.  Continue to feed them that recommended amount until that allergy season is over.  The allergy benefits from the minute amounts of local pollen.  This builds up your pets’ immune system and allows them to be in contact with larger amounts without negative effects.

All honey, especially organic raw honey, has medicinal benefits, but the honey best known for its antimicrobial properties is Manuka honey from New Zealand.  More than 20 years of research have shown it to naturally destroy harmful bacteria such as Staphaureus and Streptococcus (including drug-resistant strains); Helicobacter pylori bacteria associated with stomach ulcers; vancomycin-resistant Enterococci; and Pseudomonas.  The veterinary use of Manuka honey includes its application as a dressing for burns, amputations, and wounds, and its internal use for gastrointestinal and digestive problems.

honey-for-fat-reducing

Raw Honey For Cats

Cats benefit from raw honey too!  Just as mentioned before, raw honey is considered a staple food of many omnivorous.  Cats systems are very finicky though and it should not be used as a tonic.  It does have a great effect on relieving cats of hairballs, so if you see your cat coughing one up, just offer them a way to lick at least a teaspoon.  This should be the only ingestible use for any type of honey.  Its benefits for cats are mainly for a topical ointment.  Asians have known for centuries of the many skin conditions raw honey can treat: acne, eczema, rashes and ring worm are a few.  Scrapes, cuts and/or burns are a great use for raw honey’s anti-bacterial properties.  Since cats lick themselves, it is much safer to use raw honey than it is chemical ointments.

Raw organic honey has been proven to prevent the growth of pathogenic bacteria which occurs in wounds.  Its adhering texture also acts as a bandage, which means cuts and sores can be covered with it for a period of time.  Its amazing combinations of enzymes that bees add to the honey generate Hydrogen peroxide.  What is most impressive is the treatment of burns.  While most topical medications dry out the injured area, honey does not.  It also does not stick to a wound when removing a bandage.

To keep cats from licking it off during their love for cleaning themselves, it is advised to use an ‘Elizabeth collar’.

  • Stabilizes blood sugar
  • Anti-bacterial
  • Anti-fungal
  • Strengthens pets’ immune system
  • Powerful antioxidant
  • Support good bacteria
  • Lose weight
  • Indigestion
  • Immune system

http://www.rawtothebones.com/health-benefits-bee-products-dogs-cats/

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MORE HEALTH BENFITS of RAW HONEY for CATS and DOGS

By Sally Swope 8 August 2013

Honey is pre-digested by its makers, bees, and is absorbed immediately into the bloodstream.  Honey will inhibit the growth of harmful bacteria in the entire digestive tract and destroy those bacteria of a toxic nature.  Honey is an invert sugar containing glucose and fructose which are monosaccharides or simple sugars.  They are more easily absorbed into the body.

Raw honey contains vitamins A, B-Complex, C, D, E, and K.  It also contains calcium, phosphorous, magnesium, silicon, sulphur, potassium, manganese, copper, and iodine.  Darker varieties tend to have higher mineral levels than lighter varieties.  Honey increases absorption of calcium consumed at the same time.

Honey can also be used topically to treat open wounds, burns, cuts, skin abrasions, and skin infections.  Honey can be used successfully to treat allergies in dogs.  Rubbing of face, licking of feet and inside of thighs and scratching are all signs of allergies.  When your dog eats the honey, they are ingesting small amounts of pollen.  The body adjusts so it does not react to external pollens.  Make sure to buy LOCAL honey to treat allergies specific to your area!

The high sugar content of honey is one of the factors that make it an excellent infection fighter and wound healer.  Glucose oxidase, an enzyme in honey, produces hydrogen peroxide which kills harmful bacteria.  Using honey as a wound dressing rapidly clears infection, inflammation, swelling and pain while speeding the sloughing of dead skin and the growth of new skin cells.  It remains moist, seals wounds, and protects from exposure to air.  It absorbs pus from infections, reduces scarring, and prevents wounds from sticking to bandages.  Honey can also be used to treat wart-like growths.  Applied daily, they eventually soften and disappear.  When applying topically, try to distract your dog for at least twenty minutes to give the honey time to be absorbed before they lick it off!!

Raw honey eventually crystallizes.  To liquefy crystallized honey, stand it in hot water until it can be stirred or poured.  Microwaving is NOT recommended because it can destroy good enzymes and other nutrients.

Take advantage of honey’s wonderful benefits for your dog by offering a tablespoon daily – and next time your dog has a wound, try honey’s remarkable external healing properties!!

Benefits of Royal Jelly for Dogs and Cats

By Bobby Lynch 3 February 2014

We have found the fountain of youth!  Well, at least the fountain of jelly.  Yes it’s true, if you consider that all bees are born as workers and only live a maximum of 4 weeks, but one bee is favoured at birth and is fed royal jelly and she lives a total of 6 years.  During her life she will lay 2,000 eggs a day while staying in top shape, all because of royal jelly’s miraculous rejuvenation and energizer properties.  These same health factors can be utilized by humans and even our most athletic of pets!

If we look a little deeper into this nurturing jelly, we now know through modern research that has substantiated royal jelly as a metabolic catalyst, a substance that combats fatigue, increases energy, and supports the adrenal glands.  Some of royal jelly’s components are natural antidepressants.  Its ability to protect your pet from free radicals is outstanding.  Free radical particles occur for humans and pets during physical activities.  Free radicals one of the causes for aging and cancer.  That is why worker bees have the shortest lives.  Antioxidants work best when they are present during metabolic reactions so, feed your dog royal jelly one hour before any type of activity.

Royal jelly has been shown in studies to have immune enhancing/modulating properties as well as skin healing properties.  It has even been shown to have anti-inflammatory properties which would help your pet as well, as there is sure to be some inflammation on the skin.

Royal jelly also has benefits when it comes to pets with arthritis and obesity. When our pets over eat and become overweight, it causes free radical damage and adds stress on our pets joints. Royal jelly should be considered to avoid or if your pet has issues with obesity, arthritis osteoarthritis, congenital joint disorders or the inevitable fate of old age.

Infertility is a problem that can affect female pets.  Royal Jelly can help boost a female pet’s fertility by increasing the quality of her eggs and improving her overall reproductive health.

Antibiotics are a class of medication that is commonly prescribed to treat bacterial infections.  Royal Jelly contains 10-Hydroxy-Dgr2-decenoic acid, which is a natural antibiotic.  Additionally, royal jelly has also been shown to boost inflammation.

Everyone wants their pet to live longer.  Royal Jelly can help slow down a pet’s aging process.  It has been shown to boost collagen production and promote healthier skin.  Royal jelly can also help wounds on the skin heal faster when it is applied topically.

Royal jelly is a milky secretion produced by worker honey bees.  It typically contains about 60%-70% water, 12%-15% proteins, 10%-16% sugar, 3%-6% fats, and 2%-3% vitamins, salts, and amino acids.  Please consult a vet before giving royal jelly if your pet is taking any type of medication.

Jelly Dosage

Because of its slightly sharp, bitter, biting taste, dogs may not care for royal jelly.  Blends of royal jelly and honey, which are also popular, may be more to their liking.  Try mixing your own by blending 2 ounces (4 tablespoons) organic royal jelly with 6 ounces (¾ cup) of local raw honey.  Keep refrigerated.  Give your dog ½ to 1 teaspoon of this blend twice per day, morning and night.

 

 

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RAW: A Starter Guide

A Starter Guide

People new to raw feeding all have the same questions: “how do I start”, “what exactly do I feed?”, “how much do I feed?” All too often, people are not given the information or confidence they need to begin and this is an unfortunate barrier to getting their dog off kibble, especially if their vet is against raw feeding.  This is the guide that we give to all our dog adopters at K9 Rescue.

As you will learn, there really are only a few hard and fast rules in canine nutrition.  No one has all the answers, not the pet food manufacturers, not the vets and not even the canine nutritionists. Yet what you will also learn, as you see the health of your dog improve and your dog start to glisten with health and vitality is that it doesn’t matter.  Just as we ourselves do not scientifically analyse what we eat, nor do we need to do it for our dogs.

  1. i) RAW FEEDING GUIDELINES

The key points to remember with a raw diet are:

  • Balance over time – one meal could have more bone content, another more meat or organ.  The approximate ratio to aim for overall is:

80% meat, sinew, ligaments, fat
10% edible bone [replace with finely ground egg shells]
5% liver
5% other organ meat

  • Meats are high in phosphorus, bones are high in calcium. When meat is fed with 10% bone you have the exact ratios of calcium to phosphorus required by a dog.  Whole prey, fish, eggs and tripe have a balanced ratio.
  • Organ meat should not exceed 10% of the diet overall and 5% of that should be liver (beef liver has the highest nutrient levels). Feed liver once a week (or several small servings per week) and try to find an organic, free range source if possible because the liver is responsible for filtering toxins out of the body.
  • If feeding pork or salmon, be certain to freeze the meat for two weeks before feeding to reduce the small risk of parasites.
  • NEVER feed cooked bones of any type as when bones are cooked they become harder and are dangerous for the dog as they can splinter and pierce the stomach or intestines. Raw bones are soft enough to bend and digest easily. Dogs are carnivores as per their scientific category (their DNA is 99% wolf) so dogs are designed to digest raw meat and bones – they have a stomach PH level of 1 or 2 which is highly acidic – perfect for digesting raw bones. It is therefore important to remember the difference between raw and cooked bones. For optimal safety, meal times should always be supervised.
  • Feel free to feed ‘weird and icky things’ such as chicken feet, beef trachea, tails, lung, kidney, testicles and pizzles (penis).  Beef trachea, trim, chicken and turkey feet are loaded in natural chondroitin and glucosamine which help to build healthy joints.
  • Avoid the weight bearing leg and knuckle bones of large animals such as beef – also the vertebrae as these are too dense and dangerous to teeth.  Remember! ALL bones must be fed raw – cooked bones are dangerous as they are too hard and could splinter and pierce the stomach or intestines as well as damage teeth.
  • If possible, try to find grass fed animals that are not given hormones or medications if possible. Younger animals in general will have accumulated fewer toxins to pass on to your dog. You can be creative, approach organic and free range farmers and ask to buy their off-cuts.
  • Carbohydrates, in particular grains, are not a natural part of the dog’s diet and we do not recommend they form any part of the diet.  Dogs do not have the ability to digest grains properly, so instead, an extra strain is put on the liver as it has to produce more bile to break down the insoluble fibre.
Russell Swift, D.V.M. feels that grains suppress the immune system. Grains are mucous forming and provide an ideal environment for parasites to thrive in. Grains also contribute to the formation of dental plaque and tartar on the teeth, as well as bad breath and flatulence. Dr. Swift details how cats and dogs have no dietary requirements for carbohydrates nor are they equipped with the teeth to process them.
  1. ii) HOW MUCH TO FEED

Most dogs eat around two to three percent of their ideal adult weight per day.

So for example:

2% of adult weight: 3% of adult weight:
30kg dog 30,000g x 0.02 = 600g of food 30,000g x 0.03 = 900g of food
20kg dog 20,000g x 0.02 = 400g of food 20,000g x 0.03 = 600g of food
10kg dog 10,000g x 0.02 = 200g of food 10,000g x 0.03 = 300g of food

Initially, when switching your dog to raw, we recommend starting with 2% of body weight and splitting the daily amount as follows:

  • over 6 months old – split into 2 meals per day
  • for 4-6 months old – split into 3 meals per day
  • for under 4 months – split into 4 meals or more per day

Once your dog has been on a raw diet for two or 3 weeks and the stool is fine, dogs over 1 year old should be switched gradually to one feeding per day as it is better for their digestion when on a raw diet.  If your dog regularly does not eat all of his meal in one go, then you know you are feeding too much and should adjust accordingly.

Once established on raw, then you can increase the amount of food to 2.5% or 3% of adult body weight depending on your dog.  If your dog is very active, you may need to feed a little more than 3%, or if your dog is more of a couch-potato, you may need to feed a little less than 2% – every dog is different. The best way to tell if you are feeding the right amount is to run your hands over your dog’s ribs. If you can feel the ribs, yet not see them, your dog is at a good weight.

Puppies

Puppies should receive about 2-3% of their ideal/expected ADULT weight split into 3 or more meals per day depending on age. When puppies are four to six months old, they require a great deal of food and a little extra edible bone as they are building their adult teeth.  Do not let puppies get too thin at this important age as their energy demands are tremendous when cutting new teeth.

iii)                WHAT TO FEED

One common concern with raw feeding is that it is not ‘complete and balanced’. This is untrue for two reasons. Firstly, no one truly knows what complete and balanced is for a dog, so it is difficult to make this claim. Secondly, balance can occur over time just as we do with our own meals; every meal does not need to be completely balanced as long as the nutritional needs of the dog are met over the long term. You don’t calculate the exact percentages of protein and carbohydrates, or the exact amount of vitamins and minerals in each of your own meals, and you don’t have to do it with your dog’s meals. If you feed a variety of meats and organ meats, then it will balance out over time.

Starting Out – Gently…

It is a commonly believed myth that dogs switching to a raw diet will experience diarrhoea in the first few days or weeks.  This is a myth and is solely caused by an over-zealous approach to the switch to raw food which can cause diarrhoea and/or constipation.

Some robust dogs (such as former street dogs) can usually handle just about any raw food that is given to them, yet other dogs, particularly those that have been on kibble for several years, or who may have an underlying medical condition, need a gentler approach, so it is this gentle approach that we detail here…

1)      Choose a meat type to start off with – usually something that is easy to obtain and an acceptable price to you, such as chicken. We usually start off with just one item, and get the dog used to that first.

2)            Assuming you will start with a supermarket style prepared chicken (i.e. gutted, and without head, feet etc) then this chicken is around 33% bone in total – with the breast portion being less bone, and the bony parts, such as the wings, being higher bone.

So start with a section of the breast, cut a piece according to the size of your dog that includes breast meat and the ribs – remove the skin for now. Feed this portion for a day or so, storing the rest of the bird in the freezer for later use. Then check your dog’s stools – you are looking for stools that are not too loose and not too firm, just like Goldilocks, you are looking for “just right”.

3)            If stools are okay, then you can start to introduce cuts of the whole bird – bearing in mind that the bony parts such as wings and drumsticks are much higher than the 10% bone recommendation, so you will need to add some breast meat to balance the ratios in these early days.

4)            If stools are ok with all parts of the chicken, continue to feed for two or three weeks before considering choosing another meat type.  Whichever meat type you choose next, follow the same slow, introductory procedure.

5)            Some dogs may object to one meat type, yet adore another.  If you are having difficulty getting your dog to accept chicken for example, try a different meat source and come back to chicken once fully established on raw.

6)            Once your dog is fully established on raw food, then you can start to add in a little organ meat.  Liver is an essential part of the diet, so we recommend starting with that.  Organ meats, particularly liver, can cause loose stools, especially if too much is fed too soon, so again, depending on how robust your dog is, start with a tiny piece and build up slowly to the full 5% of the diet by checking stools at each increase.

7)            Repeat the process for other organ meats.  Heart meat can be fed as muscle meat, although not exclusively.

Puppies & Bones

Puppies adapt quickly and can be weaned onto raw straight from the dam – from about three weeks of age they start to take an interest in what their mother is eating, by six weeks of age they can eat chicken carcasses, rabbits and fish.

During the brief interval between three and six weeks of age it is advisable to provide minced chicken, ground chicken carcasses or similar (the meat and bone should be minced together).  This is akin to the part-digested food regurgitated by wild carnivore mothers. Large litters will need more supplementary feeding than small litters. They should also have access to larger pieces to start to encourage them to rip and tear to build jaw strength. Meat off the bone can be fed, but only for a short time, until they can eat meat and bone together — usually at about six weeks of age.

From six weeks of age, you can start off with meaty chicken ribs and chicken wings as the bones are not too dense so are considered soft for puppies to build up jaw strength plus some muscle meat to make up the ratios. Some raw fish is also a good starting food for puppies as the bones are also nice and easy.  To help them get their small teeth into it, just slice into the meat a bit so they can chew into it easier.  Chicken skin in particular should be sliced as they find that hard to chew through as it’s stretchy!

Chicken wings should have the wing tip cut off at the third joint, as if the puppy is tempted to swallow it whole, the double joint of the wing is a major choking hazard.

Between four and six months of age puppies cut their permanent teeth and grow rapidly. At this time they need a plentiful supply of meaty carcasses or raw meaty bones of suitable size.

Orphaned Puppies

Use Goats milk, as fresh from the goat and unprocessed as possible. It can be fed 1:1 i.e. 50% whole raw goats milk/ 50% pure water (such as spring, filtered, or pre-boiled water) or whole raw goats milk can be fed without diluting it – it really does depend on the health of the puppies. Some will find undiluted goats milk too rich and give them diarrhoea, others are fine with it. We recommend to start with diluted, check the stools and over time work up to whole milk. Whichever you choose, diluted or whole milk, add one egg to 1 litre of milk (or milk dilute) once the pup is happily established on the goat’s milk.

The milk should preferably be raw/unpasteurised and not boiled. Once you’ve made up the litre and beaten egg, then store in the fridge in a glass/china container (not plastic). As you need it, pour out what you need and warm it just a little to replicate mom’s milk temperature. Goats milk is a perfect substitute as it is much closer to bitch’s milk than cow’s milk which most puppy milk replacers are made from – we have raised many orphaned litters this way, some from as young as 2 days old.

Raw goat’s milk will also still contain a certain amount of antibodies as they are not just contained in the post-birth colostrums. It is therefore preferable for the milk to be raw, and from a goat that is as naturally reared as possible, i.e. preferably pasture fed/free range – obviously practicality reigns on this, just to say the more natural the milk, the more beneficial to the puppies. At around 3-4 weeks old, you can start to offer some raw meat alongside the milk and egg, usually minced meat, and then build up to full raw food over the coming weeks as detailed in the previous section.

  1. iv) SAMPLE MENU – STARTING OUT

For a 15kg adult dog at 2% – 15,000g x 0.02 = 300g of food per day

  Morning Evening
Week 1   150g bone-in chicken breast 150g bone-in chicken breast
Week 2  150g chicken thigh & breast meat 150g chicken thigh & breast meat
Week 3-4 150g small chicken quarter with beef trim 150g small chicken quarter with beef trim
Week 5-6 150g chicken wing & beef trim 150g chicken wing & beef trim
Increase food to 2.5% – 15,000g x 0.025 = 375g of food per day
Week 7-8 225g small chicken quarter with pork meat 150g small chicken quarter with pork meat
Week 9-10 225g pork ribs with beef trim plus occasional raw egg 150g pork ribs with beef trim
Week 11-12 275g pork ribs with beef trim and tiny piece beef liver 100g chicken wing & breast meat
Week 13-14 310g pork ribs with beef trim and 15g beef liver Alternate 50g small chicken breast with ribs or whole egg
Week 15-16 285g pork ribs with beef trim 25g kidney & 15g beef liver Alternate 50g small chicken breast with ribs or whole egg
Week 17-18 335g chicken quarter, 25g beef heart & 15g beef liver Training treats (e.g. slow baked organ or meat slices)
Week 19-20 295g chicken quarter, 50g heart, 15g kidney & 15g liver Training treats (e.g. slow baked organ or meat slices)

Notes:

–        the main meal can be either morning or evening – in this example it is in the morning.

–        only change the menu each week if stools are ok, if not, keep to the same weeks menu until they are ok, before proceeding.

–        when introducing any new meat or organ meat, test with thumbnail pieces first, and check stools before slowly increasing.

–        when introducing egg, test with a small amount of beaten egg first, and check stools before increasing to a whole egg.  Eggs can be served whole, and used as a complicated meal where they have to figure out how to get at the contents.  Sometimes you have to make a tiny hole in the shell so they can smell the egg inside and figure it out.

Remember, you’re aiming for:

80% meat, sinew, ligaments, fat, can also include heart meat
10% edible bone
5% liver
5% other organ meat

So for 375g of food a day this equals:

300g meat, sinew, ligaments, fat, heart meat
37.5g edible bone
18.75g liver
18.75g other organ meat

These measurements don’t have to be exact, just to bear in mind.

  1. v) AIM FOR VARIETY…
  • Raw bones are living tissue composed of living cells and just like any other part of the body, they are a complex source of biologically balanced minerals, especially calcium, yet also copper, iodine, iron, magnesium, zinc, and manganese. It is highly probable that bones in a dog’s diet play a similar role to fibre, that is, a role of bulking out the food, thereby removing toxins and promoting general bowel health. The easiest way to provide balanced calcium is by feeding raw meaty bones that have around 10% edible bone in them – such as whole chickens, halves or quarters, with perhaps some extra meat added in to allow for the bird having being processed (i.e. the innards missing) – a whole processed chicken is considered to be 33% bone, with some parts higher in bone content such as the wings (46%) whereas the bone-in breast portion is lower, perhaps 20%.
  • Raw, meaty bone choices – all poultry, pork, lamb/mutton, cow, deer, fish etc. Whilst the flesh of any animal is fine, bone type should be restricted to the type of animal a dog pack could realistically hunt in the wild – a cow would be unlikely and the bones are said to be too dense for a dogs teeth (especially small dogs) so could cause teeth chipping or breakage.  Common cuts can include chicken backs, wings and necks (or even whole carcasses), lamb necks, pork necks, turkey necks, pork hocks, pork ribs, ox tails, turkey tails, even lamb, pork or poultry heads for the adventurous; any meaty bone that can be completely consumed by your dog in fact. If you are feeding meaty parts then you can feed them alone, if your choices are bonier (such as chicken backs, pork necks, wings or ribs), then you will need to add meat or heart to correct the ratios.  Basically, you are trying to replicate whole prey, so look at what you’re about to feed and visualise the actual bone content – if a third or even half of it would be bone, then you know you need to add more meat.  Remember you are aiming for 10% bone, although for robust dogs there is some tolerance for slightly higher bone content.
  • Whole prey, as the name suggests, is the whole ungutted animal or bird. Depending on the size of the dog, this could be anything from small birds to a rabbit or hare.  Some people feed larger prey and then remove what isn’t eaten and store for the following days until the whole prey is eaten.
  • Raw muscle meat from a variety of sources should be fed daily. You can feed heart as a muscle meat yet not exclusively. Cheap sources are waste trim from the butcher – this is often fatty, yet also has some lean, sinewy content.   Muscle meat is a great source of protein, and protein contains essential amino acids, the building blocks of your dog. Muscle meat also contains a lot of phosphorus and is low in calcium. When fed with 10% bone you have the exact ratios of calcium to phosphorus required by a dog.  Free range grass-fed meat is also rich in omega 3 and beta-carotene – intensively farmed grain-fed meat has very little, if any.
  • Raw Fat is an excellent natural source of energy for a dog, however too much fat too soon can cause loose stools so you need to build up fat content nice and slowly – this includes chicken skin which is considered a fat, so for sensitive dogs should be removed in the early stages of raw feeding.
  • Raw fish (preferably whole, small, oily fish) can be fed for one or two meals per week. You may also opt to feed fish body oil such as Salmon oil. This supplementation is recommended if the meat you feed is not grass-fed because grain-fed animals lack Omega-3 fatty acids which protect the dog’s joints and immune system. It is preferable to feed smaller whole fish, than portions of a larger fish since the mercury and toxin levels in fish are a concern.
  • Raw offal (organ meat such as liver, heart, kidneys, brains, lung, pancreas, spleen) from a variety of meat sources should be fed for one or two meals per week or 10% of the diet. Some dogs do not like the texture of organ meats and need to have it lightly seared to change the texture. Other dogs don’t tolerate offal in larger quantities well, so it may be best to divide it up and feed a little each day to avoid loose stools. Liver is particularly important and should form 5% of the overall diet as it is the main source of water-insoluble vitamins in organs that a dog needs. Organs in general provide an enzyme-rich mixture of protein, B-complex vitamins, vitamins A and D, vitamin E, some vitamin C, and essential fatty acids EPA, DHA, and AA, along with minerals such as manganese, selenium, zinc, potassium and copper. Like muscle meat, organs contain a lot of phosphorus (and potassium) and are low in calcium.

Essential organ meats in particular:

–   Liver has a vast range of important nutrition – it has the most concentrated source of vitamin A as well as vitamins D, E, and K in substantial quantities. Liver is an excellent source of the minerals zinc, manganese, selenium and iron. It also contains all the B vitamins, particularly B1, B2, B3, B5, B12, biotin, folacin and is a good source of vitamin C. Liver provides a source of good quality protein and the essential fatty acids, both the omega-3 and omega-6 type. It’s a fantastic food for your dog!

–   Kidneys supply good quality protein, essential fatty acids and many vitamins including all the fat soluble vitamins A, D, E and K. Kidneys are a rich source of iron and all the B vitamins. They also have good levels of zinc.

–   Heart is an excellent source of protein, B vitamins and iron. It contains some essential fatty acids and a little vitamin A. Heart contains good levels of taurine which is an important food… for the heart!

  • Raw whole eggs with shells (a perfect ratio of phosphorous to calcium) can be fed two or more times per week. You might have heard that raw egg whites contain a protein that binds with biotin and that is true. To avoid deficiencies, feed the entire egg, yolk and everything. The yolks are where most of the nutrition is found anyway. Egg yolks are an excellent source of magnesium, calcium, iron, folate, vitamins A, E and B6 and free-range eggs have lots of beta-carotene. If you buy your eggs commercially, they are likely sprayed with wax and other chemicals to improve their appearance.  These chemicals are harmful for your dog so if you cannot find fresh farm eggs, feed commercial eggs without the shell and count them as a meat meal.
  • Raw green tripe has long been quoted as being “the finest of natural foods”. It should be unprocessed, unbleached – basically straight out the animal and is a great food as it is the edible lining and accompanying content of a cow or other grass eating animals’ first or second division of the stomach. Paunch tripe comes from the large first stomach division and honeycomb tripe comes from the second division. Both wild canids and domestic dogs benefit from eating tripe as it contains a very diverse profile of living nutrients including digestive enzymes, omega- 3 and 6 fatty acids, vitamin B, probiotics, and phytonutrients. Raw tripe is considered as meat yet has a very good calcium/phosphorus ratio – it’s not an essential part of the diet; yet is extremely nutritious if you can get it.  Tripe should be from grass-fed herbivore animals (not grain fed) to get maximum nutritional benefit.
  1. vi) THE “DETOX”

You may have heard of dogs “detoxing” when they first start a raw diet.  This all depends on the current health levels of the dog, particularly how many toxins it has been exposed to, and this in particular includes the number of vaccines, heartworm medications, flea preventatives etc they have been given which all have chemicals in them that are difficult for the dog to expel from the body.

With the increased health that raw provides, occasionally this build up of toxins will start to be excreted, usually through the body’s largest organ; the skin.  Typically, this will present itself as unexplained itchy skin, itchy ears with or without discharge and runny eyes.  These are all signs that the body is cleaning itself naturally and no oral steroid or injections, antibiotics or topical treatments are needed, and in fact, if used, will suppress the detoxification process and cause it to internalise into the major organs to cause organ disease later in life.  Please see the herbal health section for more information.

Raw Feeding Summary

Overall, raw feeding is quite simple. If it still seems complicated, try to visualize a rabbit or bird whole, before it gets cut up and put into containers. Try to feed your dog the rough percentage of bone, meat and organ meat that would occur naturally in this animal. This is what we strive to recreate for our dogs diet.

Remember to feed a variety of meats, not just different parts of a chicken or turkey. Over time try deer, pork, rabbit, goat, duck, turkey, beef, a variety of fish and any other meat that you can get cheaply.

As you have read, there are only a few guidelines to follow. With time, you will become more comfortable with your dog’s new diet and you will start to see the results in the form of better coats, cleaner teeth, fresher breath and fewer health issues. Switch to a raw diet and feel confident that you will be joining thousands of people who have safely and effectively made the leap to raw and have never looked back.

No matter what breed it is… No Matter what their size…

We wish you happy raw feeding with your lucky dog!

Health benefits of rawfeeding:

Natural food equals natural health and helps provide the essential building blocks of a strong immune system!

After just a few weeks of rawfeeding you will start to see an improvement in their health. After a few months the benefits are incredible and the list of health benefits are endless!!  Here’s just some of the benefits I’ve experienced with my four dogs:

  • Enjoys their food and looks forward to meal times with excitement.
  • Helps create a stronger, healthier immune system so more resistant to disease and ill-health – much cheaper vet costs, if any.
  • Shiny healthy coats.
  • Sweet smelling skin (no doggy smell) – I never bath my dogs.
  • Pearly white teeth, healthy gums and sweet breath (no tooth decay, or periodontal disease, therefore no infection on the gums and no bacteria swallowed with every gulp of saliva, this in turns leads to…… reduced chances of heart, kidney and liver disease.)
  • Better concentration with commands and less hyperactive yet more energy.
  • Easier to keep at the right weight.
  • Better muscle tone.
  • Smaller poops.
  • More mental stimulation eating dinner when they have to figure out how to attack it – helps to stop boredom.
  • No parasites (I don’t use any flea preventatives, I just occasionally use a neem herb spray instead and my dogs never have fleas, as fleas/ticks like unhealthy bodies) so no need for harmful neurotoxins for flea/tick control.
  • No need for harmful chemical dewormers again due to the added health from raw food; worms are prevented by the healthy immune system.
  • No metabolic problems
  • It’s cheaper in the short run if you buy wisely
  • It’s cheaper in the long run as vet bills are dramatically reduced – in over 4 years of rawfeeding I’ve never needed a vet.

In general dogs that eat raw are more balanced. Even their characters improve. Any raw feeder that has switched from commercial will tell you this.

Further reading: Vitamins and Minerals Present in the Components of Raw Diet

http://www.rawfeddogs.org/rawguide.html